Published August 15, 2025
Author: Bob Rupani
And celebrating India’s freedom with soldiers who are - Guardians of Our Peaks.

Our Independence Day is important to all Indians, with many having fond memories of celebrations associated with it. And while I have had quite a few memorable “Independence Day Drives”, the most extraordinary one has to be the expedition I did (and partly led) to the Siachen Glacier Base Camp in 2016, a few years before this region was opened up for civilians.

Independence Day in the Himalayas
In 2016, when I was consulting editor of Overdrive, we did an expedition to the Siachen Glacier Base Camp, and it was the first time civilians had been permitted there.
Independence Day in the Himalayas
We had special permission from the Indian Army and the privilege of enjoying their hospitality. And let me tell you they make excellent chai, pakoras, and also momos.

As a matter of fact, that “Independence Day Expedition to Siachen” can be described as a kind of “dry run” because it was the first visit by civilians, before our army and government officially began allowing our citizens to travel to the Siachen Base Camp region, in October 2019. Until then, this was a strictly restricted area requiring special permission and prior clearance from the army.

Independence Day in the Himalayas
The Siachen Base Camp at 12,000 feet, is the mother ship of our troops stationed on the glacier at 20,000 feet.

How important this region is, can be understood by the fact that when it was opened up for Indian tourists in 2019, Pakistan took serious objection saying it was an attempt by India, to occupy what Pakistan falsely claims is a disputed territory. So the permitting of tourists in an area that is also known as the “World’s Highest Battlefield”, is a strong message to Pakistan, and also to China, that sits at the other side of the Siachen Glacier.

Independence Day in the Himalayas
The lack of oxygen along with the cold means there is little of no vegetation at these heights. And everything is shaped by the blowing winds, and flow of water from melting snow.
Independence Day in the Himalayas
The mountains constantly soar over you. And you don’t need to be told – Who is Boss.

Yes, on one side of the glacier is Pakistan, and the other China. And in between is India’s Siachen Glacier, which physically prevents them from linking up, or joining forces at these heights. Siachen actually acts as a physical buffer, and that too a very daunting and formidable one, to prevent any sort of two-front war situation for us. And this is one of the primary reasons why Siachen is of such significant strategic value, and importance to our country.

Independence Day in the Himalayas
This Indian Army’s Siachen Hut displays an apt Ladakhi saying, “The land is so barren and passes so high, that only the best of friends or fiercest enemies would want to visit us”.

Given how vital it is, and how keen Pakistan is to snatch control of the strategic Siachen Glacier, it’s not surprisingly that over the years, India and Pakistan have had several armed conflicts and skirmishes here. Due to this, the smell of gunpowder hangs heavily in the thin air of Siachen.

Independence Day in the Himalayas
Many of the nalas and bridges, like this Whisky Bridge are named after some of the favourite beverages of our soldiers. And therefore in this forbidding region you often come across Brandy Nala, Rum Nala, etc.
Independence Day in the Himalayas
Given the strategic importance of the Siachen Glacier, the Indian Army and BRO (Border Roads Organization) insure that the road leading to it is kept in good condition, to enable quick movement of troops and supplies.
Independence Day in the Himalayas
What a drive. And what an experience. Unforgettable.

Ironically, in Balti (the local language), Siachen means “place of roses”. And though you can see some wild rose shrubs lower down in the valley and even near the snout of the glacier, this is not the place to “stop and smell the roses”. Instead our unfriendly neighbour has made Siachen “The World’s Uppermost Combat Zone”.

Independence Day in the Himalayas
A lot of discipline and physical and mental strength is required to serve in this “Frozen Frontier”. And this world’s highest battle school run by our finest, trains and prepares our best soldiers to operate here.

The realization that this was militarily such an important place, happened sometime in the 1980s.  Prior to that, the Siachen Glacier was unoccupied and due to the fast winds, forbidding cold, blazing blizzards, and of course the difficult to access heights of 20,000 feet above MSL (mean sea level), it was just another uninhabitable cold desert in the higher altitudes of the Himalayas, the highest mountains in the world.

Independence Day in the Himalayas
With old friend Retd Colonel Sekhon, an officer and gentleman, who embodies the motto “Here Great Courage & Fortitude Is The Norm”.
Independence Day in the Himalayas
As this area is under snow for most of the year, the Indian Army even has snowmobiles here.

Here the temperature falls as low as minus 60 degrees centigrade, and avalanches, snowstorms, strong winds and high-altitude-related diseases, are everyday occurrences. All this make Siachen Glacier one of the most difficult places to occupy and hold on our planet, which is why it is recognized as the world’s highest, coldest and toughest battlefield.

Independence Day in the Himalayas
The Indian Army has made many great sacrifices, and it’s because of their bravery that our flag flies high at places like Siachen, the World’s Highest Battlefield.

Once intelligence confirmed that Pakistan was planning on taking control of the Siachen Glacier, India quickly launched Operation Meghdoot in April 1984, and brilliantly setup up its positions on the crucial heights, and took control of the 76 kms long Siachen Glacier, and also all its tributary glaciers and principal passes. Since then, the Indian army is deployed here, with the Pakistanis occupying the lower altitudes on the other side.

Independence Day in the Himalayas
As one of the expedition leaders, I made sure everyone strictly followed the golden rule of crossing high passes. “Climb slowly. Stop for a maximum of 30 minutes or less on top to enjoy the view. And then descend to lower heights to breathe a little more oxygen”. Because this rule was sternly enforced, nobody in our group got any serious high altitude sickness.
Independence Day in the Himalayas
Oxygen is an essential requirement at these heights to prevent high altitude sickness, and the Indian Army makes sure it has adequate supply at all times.

Domination of these heights has of course cost us a lot of lives, with our brave soldiers making many sacrifices. Despite all the challenges of the enemy, the harsh environment, and living conditions that are difficult beyond belief, our army has stood steadfast and has ensured that our flag, our beloved tiranga, flies high on these daunting heights even today.

Independence Day in the Himalayas
This land is secured by the sacrifices of our soldiers, so it’s befitting that the Siachen Base Camp has a proper “War Memorial” to commemorate our heroes. The real heroes.

Independence Day in the Himalayas

This will remain not just a milestone in our military history, but will also go down in world history as one of the most successful military missions, on some of the highest peaks on our planet.

Independence Day in the Himalayas
Feeling blessed that I was able to pay my respects at the Siachen War Memorial.

Independence Day in the Himalayas

So desperate is Pakistan to grab this region, that I am told one of the aims of the Kargil War in 1999, was to cut off India’s access to this area to enable Pakistan to steal it from us. Obviously our armed forces did not allow that to happen and every Indian should salute and thank them for the amazing work they continuously do in protecting us and our nation.

Independence Day in the Himalayas
The CO’s Maruti Gypsy is also very well equipped with 5 additional lights, dual wiper blades on each wiper arm, a fire extinguisher, etc.
Independence Day in the Himalayas
A mountain pickaxe and first aid kit are also mounted on the outside, as anything can happen anytime, in this harsh place.

Fortunately, I had the opportunity to go right up to the Siachen Base Camp and personally thank and salute them for all their work, commitment, loyalty, strength and sacrifices. Just getting here was a challenge for us, despite the fact that we were travelling in comfortable Audi SUVs.

Independence Day in the Himalayas
Though we travelled in comfortable Audi SUVs, it was still a difficult drive.
Independence Day in the Himalayas
Meeting the soldiers of the Siachen Brigade and seeing how spirited and motivated they are despite the tough challenges, was a massive learning.
Independence Day in the Himalayas
I also met some of our extremely skilled and courageous helicopter pilots, who are as tall as the mountains they fly in. What’s most admirable is that they operate well above the ceiling height, or maximum altitude limits of their machines. Yes, nobody flies helicopters as high as we do. And neither do they carry as much load in such thin air.
Independence Day in the Himalayas
Celebrating Independence Day with our soldiers at the Siachen Base Camp, will remain one of the highlights of my life.

We also had the support of the Indian Army, and though I have often been to the Himalayas and Ladakh, this brief visit to Siachen, was still an eye-opener. The close glimpse of the arduous Siachen region, the interactions with our soldiers, the conversations and anecdotes, all gave invaluable insights into how special our soldiers are, and how much all Indians owe them.

Independence Day in the Himalayas

Independence Day in the Himalayas
The soldier saint Om Prakash, fondly remembered as O.P Baba is a guardian deity for all deployed to the glacier and quite fittingly the temple dedicated to him, has an arch painted in the colours of India’s flag.

This is undoubtedly venerated land secured by sacrifices of our soldiers. If you get a chance, this is where you should make a pilgrimage. In my view, it’s even more holy that some of our holiest sites. As the adage goes – “Is Mitti Se Tilak Karo, Yeh Mitti (Or should I say Baraf) Hai Balidan Ki. Jai Hind. Happy Independence Day.

Independence Day in the Himalayas

 

Most Photos-Bob Rupani

 

Bob Rupani is a born car lover and avid automobile enthusiast who has spent some of the best times of his life behind the steering wheel.

BOB RUPANI

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